Soup pho for the Vietnamese – the property of culture. Therefore, they are hostile to the theory that French colonialists attached a hand to the appearance of this dish
Preparing the soup of the FOR started in the north of Vietnam not earlier than the end of the 19th century. Before the establishment of the French protectorate in 1884, the Vietnamese practically did not eat beef, so they were taught to cook the rich beef broth, most likely the French. Some historians and the name of the soup of the phrase are associated with the French word Feu – “Fire”. The fact that soup is prepared from beef, and not from pork, traditional for Asian cuisine, testifies to the French version. The Vietnamese does not like this genealogy of their favorite dish at all: they prefer not to remember the colonial past.
INTERVIEW
Chan Man Hung
A native of the city of Vin (Central Vietnam), a concept chef of the Vytetfafe restaurant network (in 2014-approx. Vokrugsveta.ru) tells how to regulate the taste of pho .
According to local historians, for the first time the Soup CHA was prepared in the town of Namdin 100 kilometers from Hanoi approximately 150 years ago. Sold his street peddles. On a peculiar rocker they wore two boxes. In one there was a brazier with broth, which should remain hot, in the other – greens and meat for soup. At the beginning of the 20th century, one of these peddles moved to Hanoi, and his food quickly became popular.
For a long time, the broth for the phrase was cooked only from beef (they called it pho Bo), but in 1939 a chicken version appeared – the phrase. Kuryatin became an alternative to beef, which was not sold on the market at that time. Yes, and to cook chicken broth, just an hour is enough.
South Vietnam recognized and fell in love with Fa Bo only after 1954, when refugees from the Communist North appeared here. In Saigon, the traditional recipe was improved by adding local spicy herbs and sprouts of soy.
The Vietnamese begins to cook broth for pho Bo late in the evening. In a round iron stove, reminiscent of the form of a tandoor, they place fried fries with coals. Their heat is enough to maintain the temperature necessary for long -term broth for long -term broth: it must languish on fire for up to eight hours – for nutrition. Only in the finale are spices and onions with ginger add. But even after readiness, the broth is left over low heat, preventing him from cooling.
Lapsha will be prepared early in the morning from steam rice pancakes. For them, only a long Vietnamese rice is suitable for them (and dried up during this time). It is soaked for ten hours, washed and left a little water in the dish to get a liquid dough. Grind rice with manual millstones. It is believed that this is the only way to get the desired taste. If you use modern household appliances, rice pancakes (and means noodles) will become acidic and brittle.
Fresh noodles, just like green onions and cilantro, are practically not undergoing heat treatment so that they better maintain taste. But the meat is added to the soup both boiled and raw. The first is cut off from the bones from which the broth was cooked, the second is cut into the thinnest slices and simply poured with boiling broth.
Vietnamese rarely cook at home – their apartments do not always allow you to arrange a kitchen. In addition, it is satisfying and inexpensive to eat in the street cafe in Vietnam not a problem. It is believed that the most delicious soup is made in Hanoi. It is best to choose an institution that specializes only in the pho. Then you don’t even have to make an order: just sit down at the table on the street, and in a minute you will be facing an impressive, almost liter ceramic bowl with a fragrant fragrant fragment of the whole dollar for one and a half.
Recipe
Cooking time: 8 hours
How much person: 2
Ingredients For broth:
5 liters of water
Beef bones – 1.25 kg
Fresh ginger – 15 g
Onion – 1 PC.
Cinnamon – 1 stick
Anise – 6 g
Dried squid – 2 g
Cardamom – 6 g
Sugar – 8 g
Sauce Mom – 125 ml
For soup:
Beef broth – 640 ml
Raw beef – 80 g
Boiled beef – 20 g
Fresh rice noodles – 160 g
Pepper peas – 4 mg
Chopped greens (green onions, cilantro, peppermint) – 30 g
Small Red bulb – 1/2 pcs.
Lime – 1/2 pcs.
Cooking method:
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Chopped bones, bake in the oven for 20 minutes. Rinse, pour cold water, bring to a boil. Cook eight hours over low heat, periodically removing fat and foam. At the end of cooking, add a onion and ginger cut in half, baked in the oven for 20-30 minutes. Before adding ginger to the broth, beat off the back of the knife. Add a mam sauce and all spices in a linen bag (to make it easy to extract). Bring the broth again to a boil. Remove the bones and bag out of the pan.
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Scald in a colander with boiling water fresh rice noodles and put in a bowl.
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There, add raw and boiled beef chopped with thin slices, finely chopped green onions, cilantro, mint.
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Pour everything with boiling broth. Add lime juice, red sweet onion and freshly ground black pepper.
Photo: Grigory Polyakovsky